How to Remove the Tigé Touch 1 Screen From Your Dash (2010-2014)
On a Tigé, the 6.5 inch Medallion display comes out through the front of the dash. Four screws behind the chrome bezel release the whole panel, so there is no need to pull the dash top. Seven photographed steps from bezel to display unit in your hands.
Need the replacement screen?
Order the MTC 6A before you start, so the boat is not sitting apart while it ships.
If you own a 2010 to 2014 Tigé with the 6.5 inch Medallion Smart Touch display, the screen comes out through the front of the dash. Many owners start by reaching behind the dash for a pair of mounting nuts, which is how the Malibu version of this same unit is held in, and then discover their hand will not fit up there. Work from the front and the whole job takes about an hour with basic hand tools.
In this guide
- What you are removing, and the part numbers to check against
- The tools and supplies worth having on the boat first
- Seven steps from the chrome cover to the display unit in your hands
- Reinstalling, including testing before the cover goes back on
- Two ways to get the screen fixed once it is out
What you are removing
The 6.5 inch Medallion Smart Touch unit, Tigé Touch 1 system
Check your part numbers
Z-C2003 6913-00358-01 6913-00372-01 All 2010 to 2014 Tigé modelsThe display unit sits on a black panel behind the dash. That same panel also carries the Tigé control buttons on the right hand side, and a chrome Chromax cover sits over the whole thing from the front. The panel and the cover stay with the boat. Only the Medallion display unit goes out for service.
The chrome cover comes off the face, the four silver screws behind it release the panel, and the panel tilts forward toward you.
Tools and supplies
Everything here fits in a small tote
Removing the display, step by step
About 45 to 60 minutes start to finish
1Kill the power and protect the helm
Switch off the battery at the disconnect before any connector comes apart. Lay a towel over the dash and the wheel, then run painter's tape around the outside edge of the chrome cover so a slipped tool cannot mark the dash.
2Soften the foam tape and lift the chrome cover
The Chromax cover is held on with double sided foam tape stuck to the back of the bezel. Nothing is screwed down here. Soften the tape first. On a warm day, direct sun on the dash is often enough on its own. Otherwise use a hair dryer or a heat gun on low, kept moving.
Work a putty knife or the metal scraper in at one edge and cut the old tape gradually between the bezel and the dash. Keep the blade parallel to the cover the whole way around and take small bites. Two things to protect: the cover itself, which bends if you lever against it, and the dash finish underneath.
Tape that has spent years in the heat often loses much of its tack, so the cover may let go more easily than you expect. Keep a hand on it so it does not drop once the last edge releases.
The foam tape is thicker across the main part of the cover and thinner around the control buttons on the right side, and it usually is not stuck down hard over the buttons. Keep the heat moving across that area, because the cover itself is thin there and a hot spot will damage it.
3Remove the four silver Phillips screws
With the cover off, four silver Phillips screws sit around the edge of the plastic dash panel, two down the left side and two on the right beside the control buttons. Take all four out. The panel is then loose in the dash, held only by its cables.
4Tilt the panel forward and disconnect the cables
The panel is slightly larger than the opening it sits in, so tilt it forward on a diagonal rather than pulling it straight out. Bring it forward only as far as the cables allow and rest it face up on the towel.
Three cables are still attached at this point and one of them is usually zip tied to the bracket. Pulling the panel to gain slack will stress the harness or tear a connector off its board.
Photograph each connection before you unplug it. Whichever connector you are working on, pull from the body of the plug and never from the cable.
| Cable | Where it lands | How it releases |
|---|---|---|
| Blue RCA video cable | Back of the Medallion display unit | Video feed. Friction fit with no latch, so gently rotate the plug and pull. It is commonly zip tied to the bracket, which is why unplugging it alone does not free the unit yet. Leave the tie in place. |
| Main power plug | Back of the Medallion unit | Main power. Squeeze the locking latch and pull straight back so the pins stay true. |
| Control button connector | Back of the Tigé control buttons on the right side | Small connector with a fine lock tab. Release the tab before pulling. |
5Remove the aluminum bracket, if your boat has one
Some of these boats carry an aluminum bracket clamping the Medallion case to the back of the panel, and some do not. If yours has one, two screws hold the bracket to the panel and two nuts hold it to the case. Take the two screws out first, which leaves the control buttons with the panel, then back the two nuts off with a wrench or a deep well socket and lift the bracket away.
Leave the zip tie alone. The video cable can stay tied to the bracket, and the bracket stays on the boat.
Bag the hardware by group. Four dash screws, two bracket screws, two nuts.
6Lift out the screen
With the hardware off, the display comes away from the panel. On a boat with no bracket there is nothing else holding it: the screen is simply sandwiched between the plastic panel and the Chromax cover, with no glue and no tape, so a small flat head under its edge lifts it free.
7Pack it up, or move on to the screen swap
What happens from here depends on which option you ordered.
Mail-in repair. You can pack the unit now. Wrap it face first in bubble wrap, keep it from shifting inside the box, and include a note with your name, phone number, and order number. USA customers are emailed a prepaid shipping label, so print that and send it in.
DIY kit. Nothing ships anywhere. Carry on to the installation videos at the end of this guide to swap the screen yourself.
Units are repaired and shipped back in three days or less. Your settings live in the unit and stay with it through the repair, so there is nothing to write down before it ships.
Putting it back in
Reverse the order, with one thing done out of sequence
Set the bracket back on the Medallion case, run the two nuts on, and fit the unit to the panel with its two screws.
They only need to be snug. Do not overtighten them.
With the unit back on the panel, reconnect the three cables and feed the panel into the dash on the same diagonal it came out on. Start all four dash screws by hand before you tighten any of them.
Reconnect the battery and power the boat up with the chrome cover still off. Work through touch response across the whole screen, corners included, and check that the control buttons respond. Once the cover is bedded down, getting back to the panel means running the whole removal again.
There is no need to scrape it off, because most of it still does its job. Add a bit of RTV silicone only in the spots where the adhesive peeled away during removal, then set the cover back on the dash. Let it cure fully before you run the boat, because vibration on uncured silicone will break the bond.
Two ways to fix it
Same updated screen in both
Mail-in repair
Send the unit in with a prepaid label. We replace the defective OEM components with our updated anti-delamination design using brand new parts, test it, and ship it back in three days or less. All of your settings stay exactly as they were.
Repair kit
The replacement LCD and touch assembly, pre-cut adhesive, tools, and a step by step install video. Done on the boat with no shipping time. Check the box for 2.0 or 2.1 and follow the matching video.
Delamination shows up as what looks like water trapped inside the glass, with watery blobs, runs, and bubbles spreading in from the edges and corners, plus a lifting border. A dim or dark screen in daylight is the original backlight aging out. Frozen or inaccurate touch is the digitizer. Our replacement screen addresses all three.
Next: replacing the touch screen
The swap is much clearer on video
This guide stops at getting the display unit out of the dash. Fitting the new screen is a different job, and it comes across far better on video than in writing, so watch the install video before you open the kit.
Check the box for 2.0 or 2.1 and follow the video that matches, because the two versions differ.
Screen out and ready to ship?
Call us and we will confirm your part number and which repair option fits your boat before you send anything.
